UXMAL, Part Two

Uxmal, Part Two

Continuing my explorations of the un-excavated back of the Great Pyramid, wondering down shaded lanes that led to unknown treasures, coming around to the front and climbing the broad pyramid steps before me to the Temple at its top, beholding the panorama of Uxmal spread at my feet was simply delightful.  Soon I was lured onward to the next enchantment - the Governor's Palace!

The Governor's Palace

The Two-Headed Jaguar Throne

Facing the stairs that reached broadly across the Palace's great raised plaza, the famous Two-Headed Jaguar Throne is to be found.  Governors of ancient times upon it, supported by the back of this double-headed beast!  It’s sometimes hard to imagine what life might have been like so long ago, and how those beings of olden times lived their storied lives in a place with the magnificence of Uxmal! 

The façade of this massive stone Governor's Palace is completely carved, with geometric designs, with Chac Masks, with many sequences of repeating patterns.  It is quite a fine piece of workmanship and still speaks praises to the craftsmen who sculpted it.  The rooms of the great hall are now closed off with mesh, in an attempt to keep bats and swallows from nesting there. 

Turtles Circle the Roof

Below the great Governor’s Palace on a lower level is a smaller, albeit substantial, rectangular building with sculptures of Turtles along it’s facades.  This is therefore known as the House of Turtles.  I imagine that its purpose was administrative, perhaps for the offices of the next Dignitary behind the Governor in the hierarchy of Uxmal’s court life. 

The House of Turtles

To get to this lower level, one must descend the great steps that face east, and wind through the jungle.  But instead of going left to the House of Turtles, I veered right to search out the hidden compound of the Old Woman.  In a peacefully quiet corner away from mundane business of life in Uxmal lived the woman who was responsible for raising the Sorcerer King who built the massive Sorcerer’s Pyramid. 

House of the Old Woman

The story goes like this.  An old woman lived nearby who was said to be a witch.  One day she found a large egg which she watched over until it hatched a boy child, who grew up to be a dwarf. (Or perhaps the Old Woman found a child that was deformed and discarded in the forest.)  In any case, she raised him as her own son and taught him her secrets. The King of the day had this dwarf prove himself with several challenging tasks.  Helped by his witchy “Grandmother”, he succeeded in successfully completing all the challenges put to him.  Astonished, the King tried  one of these tasks,  but died in the process.  Thus began a new era in Uxmal where the Dwarf reigned as Sorcerer King.  The Sorcerer King built his massive Pyramid “in one night”.  (However, archeologists tell us that the Sorcerer’s Pyramid was built between the 6th and 10th centuries with the older temples engulfed by the current one.)  

The Old Woman's Private Pyramid

Whatever the truth of the story, the Dwarf built his “Grandmother” a beautiful palace with 2 towers, her own ceremonial pyramid, and other structures.  The remnants of one tower, a few rooms, and parts of the pyramid remain to this day.

 This was the only part of Uxmal where there remains an Altar that is still actively used.  With fresh corn and grain offerings, as well as sweet gummy bears and gummy worms, flowers and incense, it is still being actively honored with gifts, offered to the Goddesses and Grandmothers of the Earth.

Stone Penises

There is another odd display in this quiet corner of the park - a collection of stone penises, gathered together and protected by a palapa roof.  It seems that the Maya of Uxmal in ancient times were obsessed with penises!  


Some things never change…  

Iguana

Wondering back past the Great Pyramid, below the Governor’s Palace, and to the side of the Ball Court is a columned building known as the Iguana Building.  Iguanas are the perennial guardians of Mayan ruins and are seen sunning themselves throughout.  At Uxmal, they are honored with their own building!

The Iguana Building


Other assorted buildings add to the interest, even if they are unamed. 

Bird Carvings

Heading back toward the Sorcerer’s Pyramid, I took my final pass through the Birds Quadrangle.  Birds are carved along the facades above the doorways on the main building.  

Exit Passageway

Last Views 

Then through a double doorway, I exited to the rear of the Sorcerer’s Pyramid and back to the parking lot, exhausted with walking and climbing, imaging by-gone days of splendor, and wondering about having some lunch.  


The night before I had not been able to find a restaurant in the village of Ticul, where I spent the night, so out of sheer appreciation for the finer things of life, I headed to the fancy hotel just beyond the parking lot to have some lunch.  It turned out to be the best meal I’ve had in the Yucatan – tempeh fajitas (“soy steak” they called it), grilled with peppers and onions, fresh tortillas, and a good beer… YUM!  

Hotel Sculptures